Jim Carson

pw wrote on (August 29, 2004 6:33 PM)

Your profane musing on the 720r trimmer has promted me not to order the carburetor rebuild kit in vain hopes of getting the thing to work properly. I'm really convinced it is at least partially operator error (old gas/wrong ratio/dirty filter/flooding/etc), but it's just not worth it. Whenever I pour gas into the tank it just leaks profusely all over the garage floor-through the carb I imagine. I have vain hopes that newer models of any brand will make everything easier, so I will probably buy one. I really hated this thing every time I used it. It really is UNBELIEVABLE that 2-cycle engines are still so pathetic. Perhaps I'll go 4 stroke -- I have a love-love relationship with my 14 yr old snapper push mower. See ya.

Matt wrote on (May 1, 2005 10:37 AM)

you know i never had the extent of problems that you expresses in this article with my 720r... however the pull string is broke now and i am trying to figure out how to get it apart to re-string the starter... this is suprisingly difficult... i have removed the drive shaft and tore off 2/3's of the motor and i still cant get in far enough to get the plastic houseing off to reach the circular part where i wrap the new line... have you any expireance with this?? or maybe your readers.... it seems to me that the clutch is in the way... how do i remove the clutch??

john wrote on (May 22, 2005 12:34 PM)

I've got the same problem with a Ryobi 3406; the clutch seems stuck on the shaft and I can't get the plastic housing off to rewind the starter cord. There seems to be some kind of lip on the shaft which stops the clutch from sliding off.

Bill Curry wrote on (May 23, 2005 4:16 PM)

Hi...happened onto this thread just minutes after breaking the flywheel on my 720r whilst removing the clutch assembly (to get the housing off, to replace a broken pull cord). But hey, I got the clutch off!

The clutch assembly screws off the shaft (go CCW) but you have to lock the shaft from turning. I used the old screwdriver-between-the-plastic-housing-and-the
cast-alum-fins-of-the-flywheel technique to jam the shaft from turning...and broke a fin in the process. Since the replacement flywheel cost $38 and I don't even want to know how to pull it off, I'm scrapping the whole shebang after ten years. Too bad...I rebuilt the carb and replaced the tubing last year. She was really humming for a change.

Anyone who wants to hazard this repair a bit more carefully should make sure that the locking implement doesn't bear on the upper part of a fin. Perhaps there are better ways to lock the shaft.

Oh yes, I also pulled the clutch shoes and circle spring off
and then used. a large set of gooseneck pliers to turn off the clutch core. An automotive strap wrench would be a better tool if one was handy (not!).

Pete wrote on (May 28, 2005 12:50 PM)

This piece of shit string-trimmer-crapola is the worst 2-stroke machine I have ever owned...never worked (or started easy) from day one...and to top it all off you can't even find an instruction book on-line. All I needed to find was what the gas/oil mix ratio was. The dip-shits plastered WARNING labels up and down the drive-shafts but couldn't figure that a label near the gas fill stating the fuel/oil mix ratio might be helpfull to those of us that have a number of these little shit hole 2-strokes that require diferrent ratios. No more 2-strokers for me!!!(Especially Ryobis').

Jeffrey wrote on (June 12, 2005 6:20 PM)

I just picked up a Ryobi 2800R trimmer at a flee market for $40 CAN. It wouldn't start and talking to one of the vendors no-one could get it to start all day. I bought it an drained the old gas. Put in new gas and gapped the plug. I pulled on it for 3 minutes following the starting procedure, nothing!. I pulled the plug and it was soaked. I dried it off and tried again. Repeated this for 15 minutes or so them decided to take it apart. First thing I pulled was the muffler. Low and behold the reason for not starting became very evident. The fine mesh spark arrester in the muffler was almost completely plugged with carbon build-up. I soaked the muffler and mesh in varsol and scrubbed the mess clean clearing all the pours. Put the muffler back on an it started after one pull.

I works like a new machine! The previous owner must have been mixing the gas with too much oil. The oil built up and plugged the exhaust. Check your muffler. :)

Dave wrote on (June 14, 2005 7:57 PM)

Wow, some folks seem to have had a bad time with the ol' 720r!! Mine has always started well, but a little messy, like Jim's. I've used the edger, but my gripe is that the motor just isn't strong enough to dig. I have the blower and Leaf Vac, and they're just OK, but it's all MUCH easier to store than having all those different machines. Anyway, after 10 reliable years (with no maintenance and old fuel) the clutch hub separated from the main driveshaft, and destroyed the plastic housing.
I got here from Google, looking for a parts manual. Maybe I'll just pack it in. It'll be a gold mine for the trash-day curbside shoppers! 8¬)

Dave wrote on (June 14, 2005 8:08 PM)

Here's a follow up, if anyone cares:
http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Ryobi/Ryobi_Parts_Lists.html

I haven't done any business with these folks, but they DO have the Parts and User's Manuals in PDF format.
See ya....

Kevin wrote on (June 15, 2005 9:27 AM)

Jim's original rant and the followup comment brought a smile to my face...After doing everything right last fall (draining the gas tank, cleaning the grass out, hanging it just right), the trimmer refused to start last month. I knew the neighbors were talking about my weeds, so I ended up buying a new trimmer (HomeLite, as recommeded by Consumer Reports last year) (With a spring loaded quick start that is awesome).

But I couldn't just walk away from the old Ryobi (after only 7 years of frustration). Now, with it sitting there as the backup trimmer (doesn't everybody have one?), I engaged in a restoration effort. First, ordered the carb kit and took the old carburetor apart in front of the TV. The teenytiny spring flew off into my carpet and it took about an hour to find it. But it did go back together.

Then the thing actually started up--and died. Knowing that I could overhaul the carb successfully led to renewed restoration. I located some tips on adusting the hi-rpm and low-rpm screws and the idle. More futzing. But it stopped the dying-after-30 seconds thing and I have avoided the dreaded "authorized service center" visit.

Now we noticed some bubbles in the gas line. So I replaced that (it still leaks a bit of gas--working on that).

The trimmer is actually running better than it has in about 5 years. There is hope. I found the best online tips from websites devoted to using the engine on model airplanes. Who knows--the old trimmer may someday learn to fly!

Les wrote on (June 22, 2005 12:48 AM)

Just found this site by searching for an upper drive housing assembly for a Ryobi 790r. I may be the craziest among you folks. I'm putting together a cable-driven chainsaw to cut off small stumps underwater that plague our getting our pontoon boat out without tearing up props. My saw will be powered by a DeWalt 24 volt motor and gearbox I got off one of those combat robot sites. Should be an interesting summer!

Michael wrote on (July 31, 2005 3:55 PM)

Thanks Guys!
I have a 720r. The starter cord would stick and not retract. I came across the same removal problems. Most importantly, which direction to unscrew the clutch bell. I have one tip to lock the flywheel. I removed the spark plug and used a wooden plug to lock the piston. Hey you can't complain about 7-10 years from a $70 weedeater!.

Ski

Gordon wrote on (August 1, 2005 5:55 PM)

My 720r has worked fine for more than 12 years. But then both fuel lines going to the primer became cracked & began to leak fuel. I purchased some fuel line at a local lawnmower repair shop, but now I can't figure out how to remove the existing fuel line from the fuel tank. Anybody have some suggestions? Thanks!

Waldo wrote on (August 10, 2005 6:29 AM)

I've been trying also to remove the clutch so I can get to the rope starter that is locked up. So far all I've been able to do is buy a set of torx screwdrivers, cut my hand, and pop something in my back. Still haven't been able to remove that cussid clutch. What masochist sob designed the housing? If this was mine I'd set it on fire but it belongs to one of my friends who I told I'd look at it for her. Think I'll just buy her a new one of another brand.

Nathan wrote on (August 17, 2005 7:00 AM)

The Clutch is only held on by a small Allen Key Screw accessed through the small hole at the end, hello how hard is that !

James wrote on (August 21, 2005 9:08 AM)

For the past 8 years I've had the ryobi 790r. Like you said it
gets to be a pain in ass after 5 to 10 min. of not wonting to idle or just run. I was going to buy parts and try to fix it but after reading the comments on your website, I don't think so. Thanks for the info.

James

Larry wrote on (August 21, 2005 5:36 PM)

I've had my Ryobi 720r since 1991 and the ignition switch came loose so it was quite a job repairing it. The only item I had was the owners manual and parts guide to work from. First a #20 torx drive removed the hub but next was the cltch plate and how to get it off the crank to remove the engine shroud. I promptly broke the ear off the clutch plate and figured I had a problem. It required a magnefying glass to see the threads on the parts sheet on the shaft and clutch plate. After removing the cylender air shroud the bottom of the flywheel was exposed and I used a 3/16 key stock to lock the flywheel so i could twist the clutch plate counter clockwise to remove it and next remove the engine shroud to access the ignition switch. I also had to heliarch the ear back on the clutch plate and the the trimmer is working great.

Chris wrote on (August 29, 2005 2:57 PM)

My 720r has run fine since 1994 until now. Really, no issues and I use the hedge trimmer and have the blower, but it's not so great. Not enough volume. Anyway, my fuel hoses cracked and I replaced them (btw Gordon, pull the white ring off and the nipple will come off into the tank. Tip it over to retrieve them, put on the new hose, and use the hose to pull the nipple back through the hole in the tank. Replace locking ring) Now, the thing will run until I give it gas. Starts and idles fine, but there seems to be air in the fuel line that just seems to sit there. Any ideas?

john wrote on (September 11, 2005 4:01 AM)

I have a Ryobi Grass Hornet which I retrieved from one of our local hard rubbish collections. It had the same problems as all the others in the starting department and was leaking fuel from the tank (I think the main reason for someone giving it the heave-ho) I replaced ALL the fuel hoses,(making sure the primer hose was not too far up so it sucked air) gave it a carb kit and tuned it, (very important not to fiddle with the tuning unless you understand the process!!.) Our local Ryobi service agent told me that the main problems they get with them is the carbs, but are fine when re-kitted. As with all 2 strokes if you have compression and a reasonable spark, you only need fresh fuel with correct oil ratio) and they must go !(as long as you haven't fiddled first and all gaskets are sealing) I start mine by(1) pumping the primer till it is firm,(2) full choke,(3) pull till it kicks ONCE,(4) half choke, pull till it runs,allow to warm up and(5) switch to run (you may need to apply a bit of throttle while pulling as in (4)(or give it a few more pumps if it dies) If all is ok, check that when properly warmed up there is a smooth transition from idle to full revs, if it hesitates it may need the LOW SPEED mixture leaning (clockwise) SLIGHTLY.If it dies the LOW SPEED mixture may need richening(anti-clockwise)(adjust 1/8 turn at a time) Make sure that motor is just peaking at full revs and is on the RICH side of peaking (HIGH SPEED mixture)(this will avoid seizing it Adjust both till it revs cleanly and is JUST rich at full, and idleing nicely and it should start without too much trouble.(If you have fiddled and are lost,-about 2 1/2 turns out from closed on both needles should get you started) P.S Have just found another 2002 model in the latest hard rubbish and all it needs is crank bearings which are so knackered that it clatters. It starts straight up despite this (demonstrates what I said earlier - (spark fuel etc) Hope all this dribble helps someone John. (New Zealand)

Waldo wrote on (September 14, 2005 12:37 PM)

I did finally get the clutch off. Here's a good hint. To keep the flywheel from spinning, take out the spark plug and insert a soft piece of rope into the hole and then turn the flywheel until it stops turning. The piston bottoming out on the piece of rope keeps it from spinning around. After that it was a piece of cake. A repair place told me that trick. Obviously Nathan has never had his completely off.

Bill wrote on (September 17, 2005 8:24 PM)

Another Ryobi owner...Well, it sure continues to be a pleasure, after years of fighting two cycle tuning and Japanese (Chinese now) non user friendly engineering-to read the endless ways that man can describe with great literary thrusts and jabs, how to keep these tempermental bastards running.After every orfice in the tank leaked, the fuel lines desolved,all my problems escalated when the primer bulb desolved as well. I bypassed it, and enriched it by spraying fuel mixture into the carb, it will crank and die. Please, if some one can reply, That primer line, is it supposd to be submerged in fuel or above the fuel level? I know these air bubbles are part of the problem. Thankx

Tom wrote on (March 26, 2006 10:19 AM)

I got a trimmer/brush cutter for Christmas. Wouldn't start. If I dripped some gas in the plug hole, it would fire and die. I took it back to Home Depot and got another. It ran Ok. I got it out for the 2nd time today. Won't start. Exactly like the 1st one. I also noticed that the air cleaner cover and filter had fallen off during the 1st use. I'll never buy anything with Ryobi on it again.

RB wrote on (March 30, 2006 7:48 PM)

Have a 790R, clutch is locked up, have learned enough here to possibly fix. Thanks guys.

For those not mechanically inclined, may I suggest;

Hire the work out, plenty of yard crews around.

Ron wrote on (April 9, 2006 7:16 AM)

Got a new Ryobi SS30 trimmer at a very low closing out price and after reading of everyones experiences am almost afraid to even try to start it. However, since I must, I still haven't been able to find the correct fuel/oil mixture. If I don't hear back I will try my 50:1 and hope for the best.

Steve wrote on (April 10, 2006 8:24 PM)

Made me think twice about investing time into replacing a slipping clutch on my 790r. I've had relatively good success with mine. Starting is usually not an issue, but it does leak like a sieve. Had it 6 years. I will say that it is rather cumbersome and loud. I have trimmer, edger, blower, and hedge trimmer attachments. I suspect it is the edger that has destroyed the clutch. If I had it to do all over again, I think I'd buy a dedicated edger. The Ryobi is too underpowered and clogs easily in anything but the dryest of dirt. How many of you with edger attachment have gone about 3-5 feet before removing big clumps of dirt from the head?! What a pain in the ass. I guess 6 years ain't too bad for a power tool...

Lee wrote on (April 11, 2006 12:59 PM)

I have a 720rDE; I have had it for 4 years with superb service. I dropped it and the trigger on the throttle hsg and trigger assy broke. I have always used less 2 cycle oil to reduce buildup. I now have a Troybilt unit. I don't quite like it as the Ryobi, does any know where I can reasonably purchase one of the throttle housing and trigger assemblies?

Micah wrote on (April 23, 2006 2:15 PM)

I own a ryobi 766r. Have for a couple of years now. Discoverd the hard way that the aftermarket grass gators will destroy the gear head. Who knew? Replaced it and it still runs fine. At half choke. When I set it to run, it dies. Why??

m60mgman wrote on (May 4, 2006 7:44 PM)

Ron
On the Ryobi SS30: Homedepot has them: the specs says fuel oil mixture is 50:1. So your guess is good! HTH.

Ruzz wrote on (May 5, 2006 3:22 PM)

Ryobi...A word I'll never have around my yard in future years...NO SIR...I'll be looking elsewhere. I bought a string trimmer from Ryobi and not a small version. Never started from day one, string would not advance properly since new....Just keeps unwinding all over creation..very frustrating. I have 2 other trimmers I use for different parts of the property and this RYOBI trimmer I own, is by far the worst preforming one that I have. SO NEXT TIME I'M BUYING ANOTHER BRAND, I DONT NEED THE FRUSTRATION OF OWNING ANOTHER one.
Also my personal experience with the support site was awful.
GOODBYE RYOBI. furstrated to no end.

joanie wrote on (May 17, 2006 10:18 PM)

Ryobi...the world's worst trimmer. Never ever again. Understand that Ryobi makes a "Home Depot" model that is far below the one sold in other stores. Maybe so, that's where I purchased mine. Nothing but problems from day one. No explanation re gas to oil ratio, string bump never worked, try and replace string without losing your mind and get this... the shaft at the string assembly overheated and melted the assembly into the spring, melted the string cover at the shaft causing the screw to loosen and the cover to fall off. The thing is a menace and only 18 months old.

Greg wrote on (May 24, 2006 7:51 AM)

I agree that the Ryobi trimmers suck! I own 3 (one..a 2 stroke...WILL NOT start no matter what I try.....the second...a 4 stroke....the shaft broke in its second season of use...the 3rd...an electric....burned up in less than one season!) and like an idiot, here I am online searching for another! A friend told me that it was just me, he swears by them. Well, he can have them! After reading the other posts here, I see that I am not alone. I refuse to ever spend another penny on a trimmer with the word "Ryobi" on it! The problem....I have all these attachments....any ideas on a decent trimmer that is compatible?

Ken wrote on (May 24, 2006 10:25 AM)

If you want to turn off a clutch, a flywheel nut, or a nut on a lawn mower blade, on a small engine, the preferred method on the newer engines to lock up the crankshaft is;

1. take out the spark plug

2. get some small COTTON rope (nylon can leave residue)

3.fill the cylinder up as much as you can.

4. turn the crankshaft until the fill rope can't be compressed in the cylinder anymore.

This is about the best way I have found to keep the crankshaft from turning. No broken fins on my flywheel that way.

Bill wrote on (May 27, 2006 12:07 PM)

It's now Saturday afternoon... I started mowing the lawn early this morning and it was time to trim. After tugging on the Ryobi 720r cord a few times (it has always taken several pulls to get the thing started), the pull rope broke... probably because I had to yank it so hard every time I started it. Anyway, off to Home Depot for a new pull rope... I bought a new trimmer cord assembly while I was there, as mine had kind of worn down (I've owned a Ryobi 720r for over 10 years). Any way, I figured, "how hard could it be to replace the starter pull cord?" I figured wrong. Taking the initial screws out with an Allen wrench was no problem. I was even able to get the clutch drum off, but I got stuck at the same point as many of you other fellows when I hit the clutch rotor that won't budge. I guess I'm headed back to Home Depot to return the parts in exchange for a new weed wacker. You can bet it won't be another hard-to-start, hard-to-repair Ryobi.

bill wrote on (May 27, 2006 2:28 PM)

After reading these posts, I went back and gave it one last shot. Got the clutch rotor off by turning it counter-clockwise. I followed the advice above and stuck a rope in the spark plug hole (after removing the plug). Then, I used a pair of pliers, not to grab, but as a lever to twist the rotor. I put the pliers, kind of spread open into the groves in the top of the rotor and twisted. Sure enough it began to unscrew. The rest was pretty easy. I put it back together with not problems. And so, at least I don't have to spend the $100 to get a new trimmer this weekend, but soon I'm sure... it's definitely on it's last leg. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good general purpose weed wacker?

Dude wrote on (May 30, 2006 11:06 PM)

I have the 930R and picked it up at a junk yard for $2.00. The thing run at the second start. The owner always complained it never ran fine. I made the appropiate oil mixture with gas and a new plug. Its amazing how powerful it is after 2 minutes to let it warm up. Its somewhat loud, but its powerful to the point that wants to shred everything in its pass. Not like electric trimmers that seize under heavy grass, this one will eat up the wildest grass. For $2.00 of "junk" weed wacker it gets 2 thumbs up.

Rod wrote on (June 7, 2006 11:28 AM)

I have the Ryobi for 15 years now, never had any trouble with it. I'd like to point out a couple of things:

1) if your engine was spewing "oily gunk" you probably had an incorrect oil/gas mix

2) if the method of starting it is what you quoted, you were trying the wrong method and not was was in the manual. The method is actually:
a) move kill switch to on position
b) move choke to postion A (full closed)
c) pump primer bulb 5-7 times
d) pull starter cord 2-3 times
e) THEN MOVE CHOKE TO POSITION B (PARTIALLY CLOSED)
f) then pull cord again
g) after warming up for a minute or so, move choke to position C (running position)

YOU WILL NEVER GET A 2-STROKE ENGINE RUNNING IN THE FULL CLOSED CHOKE POSITION nor will a 2-stroke engine run clean with a bad mix of fuel.

I suggest you learn how to read the instuctions on the fuel mix and the weed whacker or hire someone that can rather than knock a great product!!

Jason wrote on (June 9, 2006 7:51 PM)

I also have a Ryobi 720r, it ran great for 13 years. and now it drips fuel from the carb. Already rebuilt it and same problem. I never had any problem starting mine, fresh fuel, clean plug and clean filter and she ran great. But this carb issue is starting to get under my skin. It will run fine but as soon as you kill it. Fuel runs out of the carb like a river! So bad it will drain the fuel tank in just a few hours! I get my parts from AES {Automotive Equipment Service}. Strange name for a company that deals in lawn parts. Anyway they sell just about everthing, the carb kit and carb gasket only cost me about 15 bucks. AES is located in Olathe Kansas {1651 EAST KANSAS CITY RD Olathe, KS 66061 Phone# [913]254-2600} Don't know if they ship to the whole U.S. but worth a call for all you parts hungry Ryobi lovers. And if anyone can tell me what i screwed up on the carb rebuild. Please let me know, i have tried fiddling with the spring lever under the diaphram. But with no success. Thanks Jason

leo wrote on (June 12, 2006 9:05 AM)

OMG after rebuilding the carb, changing fuel,lines,plug,and screaming words that would make a sailor cry, my ryobi 725 r is running better than it ever has!!! Thanks to John of New Zealand for the carb adjustment advice. I like the machine and it has served me well,hopefully will keep going. Leo in
Pittsburgh PA USA

Richard wrote on (June 23, 2006 9:27 PM)

I have owned my Ryobi 720r for 6 years now. I have never, ever had a problem getting it to start and stay running. By far this has been one of the better weed eaters I have owned. I wonder, do those having problems with their Ryobis trim a large area and/or use it daily? I use mine to edge and weedeat a 1/4 acre sized lot once a week. I sometimes use an edger attachment that has been a pain, but not because of the weedeater itself, but because of the edger. The one time it did leak fuel was due to an error on my part. The gasket on the fuel cap had worked itself down into the threads and was not sealing properly when I screwed it on. When I turned the unit upside down to edge, the fuel leaked out. Other than that, this has been a superb piece of machinery. For $89, what more could you ask for? When it finally does crater, I will buy a new one and leave this one on the curb for somebody to grab and repair.

Mark wrote on (June 27, 2006 1:26 PM)

Stop whining!! Ryobi kicks ass! Going on 11 years for mine and it is as reliable and strong as the day I bought it. One poster said it is too loud, WTF?!? It is a lawn tool!! That sound you hear is POWER!! F the neighbors! I'm trying to get some lawn work done ;)The fuel lines do get old and leak (replaced mine twice so far) I will admit, but that is a minor maintainence issue. Keep it tuned up, fresh fuel and your good to go. I have all the accessories and I love the flexability it offers me. NO I don't work for ryobi, so get over it. Also, I scanned all the documentation I could find for mine and have it as a PDF file. I e-mailed it to Mr. Carson maybe he will kindly host the file here for you guys.
--
P.S. For the guy who just wanted the fuel mix info:

Ryobi 2-Cycle Oil
Part# 147543R
4 oz. Bottle (.118L)

Mix contents (all) of bottle with
1 gallon (3.785L) FRESH fuel.
Give a little shake.
Mixes in 32:1 Ratio.
---

Have a nice day!

Mark

Evan wrote on (June 28, 2006 10:59 PM)

I have an 11 year old ryobi 720r that was my father's. As long as I can remember it has been a bitch to start, even after just being used ten minutes earlyer. I really need to buy a new one, but I'm a broke college student. All my fuel lines rotted off and I lost the owner manual in hurricane Katrina. I can't find anything online. I have it running now but as soon as I give is gas it kills. If anyone could look on their walbro carb and help that would be great. I believe I've run the fuel lines correctly but I have no info to go on. Any info would be greatly appreciated

John wrote on (July 3, 2006 6:20 PM)

Hey All,

Read all your experiences with the Ryobi's, 'cause my 790r trimmer clutch just left me and was looking about how to fix it.

I removed the clutch cowl, and also disconnected the throttle cable at the carb. throttle linkage, pulling it thru the plastic front housing to completely separate.
The screw that hold's the clutch drum to the main shaft is a T-20, turn it counter clock wise (CCW), and use a crescent wrench to hold the drum still. If the clutch drum is stuck to the clutch rotor assembly (assy.) after unscrewing it, it's because the drum is scored inside, and you need to use a small screwdriver to help dislodge the clutch rotor pads away from the drum by pushing the clutch shoes downwards. Don't worry about being to harsh doing this to separate it, it's already trashed. My clutch separated into 2 pieces when I got it off. It was broken anyway at this point.

The cotton rope idea is a good one and worked for just fine. I removed the the spark plug, and turned the piston shaft to its bottom position. Next I stuffed the clothes line (cotton rope) into the cylinder until no more could go in. I left a good amount remaining outside the spark plug hole to use for its removal afterwards. I grasped the remaining inner clutch assembly on the motor shaft with a large vise grip, and turned it CCW, the piston turned a bit in the cylinder until it loaded and then stopped against rope, locking the shaft to let me unscrew the remaining clutch assy. from the shaft.

I next removed the clothes line and all is fine. I ordered the 2 parts today (clutch and drum assy.) from outdoordistributors.com, and with shipping, came to $42.22.
The cotton rope (clothes line) is a great idea and never I would have never thought of it (well, maybe a couple years anyway :) ), and worked just fine for me.
I felt the need to contribute to the forum after your help.
Thanks again.

Steve wrote on (July 3, 2006 8:22 PM)

I have a Ryobi 720r with the edger and weed wacker attachments. I experienced my first ever problem today while using the edger. I felt something wet hitting my leg - it was beginning to rain - when I felt it again in the same spot I knew it was fuel. My hoses were leaking. I trotted off to Taylor's Doit and picked up 2 feet of tubing. I didn't have any problems 'till I replaced the fuel filter line. Couldn't figure out a good way to put it back without it leaking. You can't get anything in the tank to push the filter through the hole. Thanks (Chris wrote (August 29, 2005 02:57 PM):) I tried it and it worked great. I did expect the fuel line to pop but it didn't. I've had good luck with mine for 10 years I guess - proper fuel mix probably helps with starting and running. I have found it to be underpowered but only if I've been lazy and not edged for a long time.

Jim wrote on (July 3, 2006 9:50 PM)

This trimmer is awesome. I finally had to purchase parts(still able!) for it after something like 10 perfect years. Know you mixture people.
Steve, I'm going through the same thing. Unfortunetly it seems its impossible to just replace the hoses lol. I went ahead and ordered a new tank assembly. Thank god, the hoses are already installed in the new tank! lol. Now, i just can't figure out how to remove the old tank?

Ron wrote on (July 5, 2006 7:12 AM)

I've successfully used my 790r for over 10 years and the power head has finally given up. Question for anyone: Will the Ryobi Trimmer-Plus attachments fit on any of the new Ryobi power units?

FN Frustrated wrote on (July 5, 2006 3:52 PM)

RYOBI SUCKS!!! The worst thing I ever owned for starting (snowmobile, lawn mower, atv, dirt bike etc). It is CRAP.

FN Frustrated wrote on (July 5, 2006 3:53 PM)

RYOBI SUCKS!!! The worst thing I ever owned for starting (snowmobile, lawn mower, atv, dirt bike etc). It is CRAP.

huskylite wrote on (July 5, 2006 6:12 PM)

Same problem. The engine leaks gas out of the choke. It starts, but immediately stops unless I press the fuel button.

I bought a Husqvarna since everyone else seems to use these. The head is nice. The weight is good. Everything is enclosed. The only problem I have with it is the crappy hard plastic handle and the fact they switched the direction of the head from clockwise to counterclockwise. The shield is a bit too large too. I would like a smaller shield and to make the head go the other way.

I tend to burn myself on the Echo since the exhaust points towards the arm on the side. They also seem a bit under-powered and everything is exposed. Nice way to get it hung on something and rip out gas hoses. The handle was pathetically uncomfortable. The head didn't compare to the husky design. The weight was good and had a smaller shield. I wonder what direction it spins.

I like the work done on the Toro. It has a durable shield, incredibly comfortable padding and square handle making it easy to turn on the side. It also has this plastic extension great for propping it on the hip when doing a large clear job. My own problem was the weight of it and concern with using the Ryobi head. Hey, it is better than the Homelite, bump until you break the shaft because it doesn't feed design.

Troy has the 4-cycle. It was too heavy for my taste. But decent square handle.

I just wish Echo and Husqvarna would buy a clue and realize these things are turned on the side and need to be designed for it with square handles, a head that spins away from the body, and exhaust that points away from the arm with left index finger on the throttle. The only way to get it to throw debris the right direction is to stand between the motor and edge and have the thumb on the throttle--uncomfortable and hard to hold steady while walking. I'm just going to have to learn to hold it at a pure parallel angle so i'm far away from the path of debris. One nice thing about the echo is that you can losen to screws and turn the engine upside-down so it is right-side up with exhaust pointed away.

Husqvarna has the Homelite design where the engine is encased onto the handle and pole and thus engine can't be turned. Can't replace the throttle handle or turn it either. I can replace the regular handle though. Noticed the Husqvarna has the Homelite head on it, which apparently Homelite has switch from a clockwise to counter-clockwise direction. I bought a replacement shaft for the Homelite--they switched the direction on the replacement shaft!

WTF, why does it spin counter-clockwise. Do they not realize how many beaners are going to have to relearn to use the tool of their trade. It is like making a right-hand artist paint suddenly with their left hand. Please, can someone sue (and burned the yard) of the genius who decided to make these things turn counter-clockwise so that debris is thrown at our legs all day?

Barry wrote on (July 15, 2006 8:07 PM)

I have a Ryobi SS30 String Trimmer, 1 1/2 years old. It won't start (not a big surprise). New Plug, gapped properly, fresh gas/oil mixed properly. Starting procedure are followed as instructed. Under further review, I find Page 21 of the "Operator's Manual" tells me the spark arrestor must be cleaned every 25 hours of operation or yearly BUT THE MANUAL WILL NOT TELL ME WHERE IT IS LOCATED! They say Spark Arrestors "may be located in different locations depending on the model purchased and to contact my service dealer". WHAT KIND OF MANUAL IS THIS???? The front of the manual tells me the model.

From looking at the thing, I believe I found what looks to be an exhaust outlet and it has some carbon build up. I guess I'll tear into it, taking off the shielding and removing what looks to be a plate looking piece and see what I find. Any other help would be appreciated.

Bob wrote on (July 24, 2006 5:39 AM)

I got a Ryobi blower, but sounds similar to all these comments. I have a couple of comments and questions.

First comments: My blower would not rev up. After looking through the ideas here, I pulled off the muffler to find the exhausts ports almost totally plugged ( I had just rebuilt the carb- cost about $15 for a rebuild kit from some place in Minnesota , Pat's engine parts ? ) anyway, once I cleaned up the exhaust, woommm.. just like new for 5 minutes. This is likley the result of using too rich oil mix. I got 3 or 4 2 cycle toys and one oil mix: richest for the machine requiring it so all the others suffer.

In all the disassembly, I mal-adjusted the throttle-trigger cable lenght, so I diddled with it to get it right. Started right up and ran great for 5 more minutes, full speed, nice, if a bit rough. Can't do much carb adjusting on this machine , the screws have caps on them that limit the mixture adjustment to only a tiny bit.

So, then, the blower slowed and died, just like that, had gas but it just died. So pull, pull, pull, pull. Choke, no choke, etc. Until the 12 yr old cord gave up the ghost.

So I took the thing apart, and I figured out how to redo the recoil winder. Try this: I tied a piece of fishing line onto the outboard end of the pull cord and wound it onto the spool ( after the real cord): So I got all the cord wound and about 1 1/2 wraps of the fishing line. Then, engage the spool onto the spring, and pull out the line. You can play around to get just the amount of 'preload' you want on the cord once you pull the cord out by using the fishing line. Worked well. Should have thought of it years ago.

Anyway, then it still wont start.

So heres the question: I get a pop or two, seemingly from the prime, but it wont really run for more than a few seconds. Any ideas about what is next.

This is now a quest: I bought a Troy built blower so this is now just a challenge to over come.

Bob wrote on (July 27, 2006 4:49 AM)

My latest diagnosis is no spark. I guess I have never seen a bad coil/magneto. Is there anything to check to see whats up ? I disconnected the kill switch so I dont think that is an issue

Tony gerada wrote on (August 19, 2006 9:20 PM)

It was amusing reading the comments about the Ryobi 2800. I have a similiar carburetor hose hook-up problem. Nowhere I can find how they should be configured from the fuel tank to the carb via the bulb primer. Can you please direct me to a site?.
Thanks in advance
Tony

rob bass wrote on (September 3, 2006 10:09 PM)

How about the cheap plastic guide for the drive cable that gets heated up in the upper boom assembly. Think some engineer could come up with something that would out last the carbs, recoil, string advance problems. Bash away on these things as they are Not Build Very Well. schesh,
Where were these things made any way??????

gerald julian wrote on (September 6, 2006 5:11 PM)

the history of my 720r--when new started a couple of times--pull cord locked up--into repair shop--shop sent it back to Ryobi---after three weeks--a rebuilt one was trucked back to me---it started fine a couple of times--hmmm, i tried starting it today for fifteen minutes---am back to square one--being 84 years old, pulling on a damned cord is not my idea of fun!! sore arm and shoulder is expected in the morning! this is a fun spot to thrash the hell of an item--LOL

Jim wrote on (September 7, 2006 11:41 AM)

I've had my 790r for ten years with no problems at all. I have the tree trimmer attachment too, which I have used and abused many times. This is a great machine...but...

Finally I have a problem with recoiling. The thing just won't pull start. Feels like too much compression. With the plug removed it pulls fine. With the plug in, forget it.

Is it finally junk?

Jim

Brian wrote on (October 3, 2006 3:49 PM)

My 720r is now 13 years old, after 30minutes of pulling the cord it usually starts.However not today,my arm is hevy and I have a blister on two different fingers..I'll let it rest and try later.
Brian

Bill wrote on (October 14, 2006 7:45 AM)

I am not one to waste my time with sharing bad experiences on products, but this is important to anyone who thinks about buying a ryobi product. I have a 720r and the engine runs great but would only serve as a good engine for a large scale model airplane. But i was fooled that it was a weedeater. I bought all the attachements when I purchased it and found out that nothing works below the engine,(meaning all attachments to include the weed eater without shearing and breaking off the flex shaft which has happened three times in the two summer seasons that I have owned it. Common sense told me that the felx shaft (either upper or lower is able to withstand the torque on any of its attachements to include the weedeater which is its primary attachement. I have replaced this part three times at a generous $33.00 a pop and now with very little use out of the product, I now can say I have spent more than what the weed eater model 720r cost originally. I would never and hope others to will understand that any ryobi product is not worth buying now or ever since the company obviously doesnot see the importants of correcting its inoperative parts and attachements that are indeed a very poor engineered product. For those of you who feel that this is not a bad product, have fun dealing with the distrubuter but understand that feeding into this product is what keeps companies going. I have embarrassed myself by wasting the amount of time on this product and will never buy anything from a company backed or affiliated with ryobi since making a honest dollar is not in their code of ethics.

Dan wrote on (October 14, 2006 7:27 PM)

Here's the cure for the fuel drip issue on the Ryobi trimmer. I too had to replace my fuel lines recently (Ryobi 775R), and once I had all the parts for my rebuild (took a bit), I reconstructed the machine. However I routed the fuel lines incorrectly and that was the cause of the fuel problem. The new Troy Built trimmer (looks like a relabeled Ryobi) I purchased clued me into this (i'll be taking it back now).
There are two lines off of the tank. The line without the filter goes to the center port on the primer. The line with the in tank screen / filter runs to the bottom fitting of the Walbro carb. The outer port on the primer goes to the top fitting on the carb.
Once I had the lines routed properly the carb no longer dripped fuel. I was never able to find anything on the web in regards to the fuel line routing, and it took a new purchase to figure them out. You would think after I messed with this thing well over a month, I would have stumbled over it but I never did. (feeling pretty damn stupid)
Anyway, I hope this helps out the next guy to run into this.
My guess is this fix will work on some of the Homelite models also.

Cheers...

keith bryant wrote on (October 15, 2006 10:58 PM)

I have 2 weedeaters, model 720R and could be happier with them. My son cuts 5 neighbors yards going on 6 years now. Why am i so pleased with ryobi? In the confusion of several cans of fuel in the garage. He got the kerosene can mixed up with the 2 cycle fuel and used 2 gallons of kerosene thru each of them before we knew it. Started just fine using the 3 pulls on each cycle of A B C setting of choke. That was 2 years ago and they run fine.

Mike wrote on (October 18, 2006 4:09 PM)

I had a horrible time with my Ryobi 775r, then one day I took out the spark arrestor (located engine side, inside of the muffler). My intention was to clean it, but the screen was so carboned up, I just yanked it out with needle nose pliers. Runs like a banshee now.

Bily wrote on (October 29, 2006 4:16 AM)

Ive got a ryobi pbc3046ye.it starts first time but ive recently borked the clutch..anyone know where to find a new one?btw to remove the clutch there is an allen key bolt inside the square thing that turns the rod,its a bit of a bitch to get off but it comes eventually.any help at all would be appreciated ive searched but cant even find a diagram..

Texas wrote on (November 1, 2006 6:35 AM)

Yeah, Ryobi is the worst! Here is a forum that discusses Ryobi:

http://www.ryobitools.com/dc/dcboard.php?az=set_expanded&forum=101&topic_id=344&mesg_id=344&page=

Kris wrote on (November 7, 2006 4:08 PM)

Wow, and to think I almost bought a Ryobi myself a few years ago because of the multi attachments and low cost.

Needless to say I didn't. Here is my story in brief. I was working for a farmer and my job was to weedeat every freaking fencerow in over 400 acres, in at least 10 different patches.

Anyway, he gave me a Stihl FS 76 to use, with a 5 gallon can of premixed fuel and a big bag of plastic blades and a screwdriver.

Everyday I prayed that it wouldn't start. Rain, shine, day or dark, the damn thing wouldn't fail to start and would only stop running when it ran out of fuel. 10-12 hours a day 6 days a week the damn thing wouldn't quit, I nearly died using it, but ended up in great shape and lost over 25 pounds in 6 weeks, plus put on a lot of muscle.

So, needless to say when the time came to buy my own weed whacker I spent about 200 bucks and got one that starts every time, even when fuel is stored in it all winter. I will cut any grass and weeds at half throttle or less and will cut small trees at full throttle without even slowing down. I don't mess with the string at all and use the plastic blades. Metal seems too dangerous, but I have heard of ppl that put circular saw blades on them to cut brush and small trees.

Simply awesome!

No I dont' work for Stihl.

Lesson: You get what you pay for, at least with the Stihl.

P.S. I use the straight shaft model not the curved one, it gives better reach, keeps danger farther away and if the guard annoys you, just take it off. I wear eye protection, but have never had anything signigicant come back at me.

Dx wrote on (November 30, 2006 11:55 AM)

The 720r i've used it maybe 15 years now and it always starts and runs great. By reading some of these post i know some of you are dumb as dirt and others know what there talking about. This is a great tool to have.

Steve S. Kansas City wrote on (March 11, 2007 7:31 PM)

I own a Ryobi 765I straight shaft gas trimmer for 2 years. When I first got it I changed the feeder line head to a Craftsman head that you use pre-cut line with. It worked fine for the 1st season then the problems started. I twisted the flexable cable shaft into. I ordered a replacement shaft used it for several cuts then it broke into. I ordered 2 more shafts and if I broke a 3rd one I would try to have a solid steel shaft made. The 3rd one broke and I had a friend of mine who is a machinest make me a solid shaft using the 4th as a reference. The other day I put the solid shaft in tryed to start it and the line head free wheeled. I took the angled gear head apart and found the bolt head the shaft goes into had screwed its self out of the gear. I put everything back together LockTited the bolts to the gears and when I tryed to start it the engine will not fire I not getting any spark.I guess I will try to have the engine fixed before I junk it and buy a differant one. The shafts were being broken by the engine kicking backward when I tryed to start it.(Kind of like the WW1 airplane props when they pulled them to start) I've been pretty disappointed with Ryobi. I will say the engine had alot of power when it worked right but I won't own another one.

Rynobi did me again wrote on (March 31, 2007 7:48 PM)

Okay, so after I destroyed the first one (720R) I said enough of the 2 strokes, and went with a 4 stroke. Never a problem, started right up, Just bought a cultivator attachment, worked great for 2 minutes then it stoped turning. Thought it was the cultivator, put on other attachments....nothing, pulled housing off of clutch, cluch appears fine. Could I have broken the shaft? it turns under no lode but will not power the attachments. THoughts

Jas wrote on (April 5, 2007 12:16 PM)

You sound a little green. Turns out, with the cheaper gas, you need to use a leaner mixture. Thus the spitting oil.
Make it 38-1 to 40-1 as per new recomendations.

Pull the cord as fast & as many times as you can to start it.

I like mine. It tills, blows, sucks & trims with no problem. It's 7 years old.

Dave wrote on (April 8, 2007 8:20 PM)

I bought a Ryobi trimmer from Home Depot a couple of weeks ago. I'm just using this around the house so I didn't want to spend a ton of money and for $100 I figured it would work fine for at least a year. Well, I mixed the gas and followed the starting instructions and I could not get the thing to start. The best I could get it to do was run for a few seconds before it stalled. After 20 minutes messing with this thing I packed it up and returned it. They may make great tools but the one I got was a piece of trash. I will never buy another Ryobi product. They look cheap, feel cheap and just plain are cheap. I'll gladly spend the extra cash to get something that actually works.

shawn wrote on (April 13, 2007 3:58 PM)

go with a husqvarna wacker. they are a little more pircey but we have had ours for almost fifteen years without a single problem. If it does die it isn't hard to fix.

Joe Ro wrote on (April 30, 2007 1:06 PM)

I have a 720r for years with no problems. Most of the info here is good,but not once did I read about octane 2 stroke engines run best I found with a 40 to 1 ratio mix. These engines need high octane fuel 97 is the best to use. Run it dry in the winter,use freash fuel in season, Champion quick start plugs. do your maintenance.

Don wrote on (May 5, 2007 11:32 AM)

To everyone who has a Ryobi trimmer that works well, thank your lucky stars, kiss the ground and go out and buy yourself a lottery ticket because you must be the luckiest sob on the planet!! My Ryobi trimmer has been a pain in the a** since day one. It always takes 15-20 minutes of cussing, pulling, sweating and more cussing to get the blasted thing started and then has to be run on high or else it stalls. H***, by the time it starts I'm too pi**** to use it!! Since I work a lot of hours, my dear wife graciously offers to cut the grass and would weed whack but she absolutely cannot get it started so I get the incredible joy of dicking with it!! I have tried all kinds of maintenance wonders with it to no avail. My father who could fix anything can't do anything with it either. Last year, I swore I was going to buy a nice, little cheap electric and be happy as a clam!! I still can't believe I gave my electric trimmer away when I got the Ryobi. BTW, my niece was the recipient and after 5 years the electric is working nicely. No more Ryobis!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gene wrote on (May 12, 2007 10:57 AM)

Reading, Ding dong, the trimmer is dead, I had tears in my eyes from laughing so hard. I've owned this model for about 9 years, and have dreaded using it every single time. It always started, but the procedure is exactly as described. The only other thing I would mention is that occasionally, the engine kicks and pulls the starter rope handled through your fingers causing the most extreme pain. It never had enough power and the trimmer line never advanced as it should. Finally, today, the little gas tank nipple disintegrated. Rather than look for a new one, I'm going to do myself a favor, throw it in the trash and buy a new trimmer. I've read good reviews about the new Ryobis. I want 2 things in my next trimmer. It must start easily and the line must advance properly. If I can't find one that does that, I'm buying goats.

Greg wrote on (May 19, 2007 12:46 PM)

The head fell off the bottom drive shaft today. Wondering if there is a securing mechanism that I may have lost in the grass or does the head just need tapped back onto the shaft

Kevin wrote on (June 2, 2007 11:22 AM)

This thread has been very helpful and amusing. I bought a used Ryobi 720 R EZ for $25 and it starts and runs pretty good. Now the clutch is sticking and I need to remove the drum to find out what's up. I will follow the above advice and use a Torx to remove the screw inside the drum. The parts diagram I downloaded does not list the bolt, but the picture shows it. The cotton rope idea is great to lock the piston, I will probably try it out. Wish me luck

Mark Smith wrote on (June 2, 2007 7:02 PM)

Unfortunately, there are a lot of people who should have all their lawn maintenance done by professionals. Most of the low and medium priced equipment should only be used by personnel who are extremely mechanically competent. You get what you pay for and if you cannot tolerate the idiosyncrasies or fix it yourself then either have someone do the lawn for you or buy the best equipment money can buy. I'm serious. I have owned a lot of equipment from the inexpensive to the very best and the low/medium cost stuff is mostly junk. And this includes junk from Stihl, John Deere, Ryobi, Honda, Kawasaki and many others. If I cannot get it to work properly, I try to return it or just throw it away and move on.

Ted wrote on (June 3, 2007 8:39 PM)

Thanks for the hints to remove the clutch/flywheel, I was about to try something drastic, which may have resulted in the sledge hammer putting the little beast to rest for ever. The rope trick was fine, however a word of caution a piece of the rope jammed in between the cylinder wall and piston, fortunatley for me when I screwed it all back together it came loose and has not affected the compression. The little beast is coming up to 14 years old and has had a few issues over the years. I will not spend any further money to keep it going. I think every time it starts from now on is bonus time.

Tim wrote on (June 12, 2007 4:53 AM)

've a 790r and I had to remove the casing holding the pull. cord and ratchet paw to get to a bolt I dropped and lodged in the cylinder head. Just took one of my larger straight slot screw drivers and lodged into the fly wheel before one to the lager plastic pieces where the drive shaft is attached, the strongest point. Once I got the flyweights off, took anther screwdriver and a hammer and one sharp whack, got the center hub/weight off the drive staff. Hit the center hub CCW.

John wrote on (June 12, 2007 6:21 PM)

My Ryobi bit the dust. My neighbor's Ryobi bit the dust.He is in lawn care business. My boss's Ryobi bit the dust. I feel bad because I told them they were lightweight and cheap so they bought one only to have them kerplunk.

That was a couple years ago. Right now, I'm having problems with my Bolens from lowes. It runs for about 5 seconds then stalls. Good fuel mixture, clean filter.

Dallas wrote on (June 14, 2007 12:33 PM)

Mine has now bitten the proverbial dust. Had it for about 5-6 yrs and has worked reasonably well. Well, I'm off to Sunbelt Tractor to buy a Stihl FS 55 ($199). Hopefully it will be the best trimmer I've ever owned...although that wouldn't take much coming from the cheapest thing available.

My Ryobi should be out to the street this Monday. Trash hawks will snap it up I'm sure ;)

Martin wrote on (June 19, 2007 10:09 AM)

I have a 790r and had for a few years. Cannot get it started. I followed the starting procedure. I installed new fuel lines and new plug. The plug is fireing out of the engine but is wet when removed. I've never had any trouble starting, it usual started fairly easy. I'm stumped please help if possible. Thank you very much

Mark wrote on (June 19, 2007 11:16 PM)

I have a Ryobi 766r and had problems getting it to stay running. Would run if left in Partial Choke "B" position but ran roughly and would die frequently. It would start as long as I did the primer bulb thing 5-7 times, begin in Full Choke position "A", and keep pulling until it fired (and died). Then would move to Partial Choke position "B" and would start and run if kept in that position "B"--but would die whenever I tried to switch it to Run position "C". Anytime I tried to start it, cold or warmed up, I had to start in the Full Choke Position "A" or it just wouldn't start.

Was about ready to forget about it until I tried a new batch of gas/oil AND added STA-BIL gas stabilizer. BOY, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Engine now starts cold (as noted above using postion "A") but when warmed up after 5-10 seconds, it now runs perfectly in Run position "C"!

I finally found the manual and read: "Old and/or improperly mixed fuel are the main reasons for the unit not running properly. Be sure to use fresh, clean unleaded fuel. Follow the instructions carefully for the proper fuel/oil mixture....Today's fuels are often a blend of gasoline and oxygenates such as ethanol, methanol of MTBE (ether). Alcohol-blended fuel absorbs water. As little as 1% water in the fuel can make fuel and oil separate. It forms acids when stored. When using alcohol-blended fuel, use fresh fuel (less than 60 days old)....Drain the tank and run the engine dry before storing the unit."

To my knowledge, I was using unleaded gasoline (not a "blended fuel" type)--but not fresh gas-- with no Sta-bil type fuel additive. I also didn't drain and run the engine dry before storing the unit consistently.

I was seriously thinking about either carburator work or a new unit because of how poorly it was working. Maybe somebody already wrote about this earlier (I didn't read every post). I pass this along FYI because I just can't believe the difference fresh gas/oil and the Sta-bil additive made for me. I actually look forward to using it for trimming now!

Felix wrote on (June 24, 2007 4:52 AM)

when i was thinking of buying a trimmer, i wanted a stihl but did not want to spend alot.

i have never been so fed up after spending money on a trimmer and it not working on its second use.

DON wrote on (July 5, 2007 12:47 PM)

Have had the Ryobi edger for 6 months now, all of a sudden it just stopped working.1) cleaned outfuel lines,Fuel does fill up bulb prime it, still wont start. Squirt starting fluid into carberator THEN IT STARTS till fluid runs out. Any help would be most gratefull.

SALLY wrote on (July 12, 2007 6:50 PM)

I HAVE A RYOBI 700R . ITS BEEN A GOOD ONE FOR ABOUT 6 YEARS NOW. BUT WHAT I NEED TO KNOW IS I PUT FRESH GAS AND NEW SPARK PLUG IT STARTS UP BUT DIES RIGHT BACK OUT ANY SUGGESTIONS OF WHAT MIGHT BE WRONG. PUT NEW GAS LINES ALSO.

Roger wrote on (July 13, 2007 6:20 AM)

Last year Bob wrote on (July 27, 2006 4:49 AM)
My latest diagnosis is no spark. I guess I have never seen a bad coil/magneto. Is there anything to check to see whats up ? I disconnected the kill switch so I dont think that is an issue

Did this get answered? I need to know also. I have 790r with no spark. It's not the kill switch or spark plug. I'm thinking that only leaves the mag or coil. Is there an easy way to troubleshoot this?

ticked off customer wrote on (July 30, 2007 6:01 AM)

After having my RYOBI 720rDE (gas edger) sit in the garage corner for the last five years because it didn't cut worth a crap, i just realized that it was installed with an incorrect cutting blade. When calling their customer svc line to see about getting a replacement to fix their mistake, I was told too bad! If I had read the above comments first, I would not have been surprised. Sounds like RYOBI is the GM of outdoor power equipment....